Friday 28 January 2011

BOLIVA

COPACOBANA

The journey from Peru into Bolivia was a picturesque drive along side Lake Titicaca that straddles the borders of both countries and is concidered the largest high altitude lake in the world (3808m) When we reached Bolivia we stopped on the shores of the lake to stay in the town of Copacobana. We arrived after dark so in the morning I went for a wonder around the small bright town and a visit to the sparkling Cathedral that looks over the town.After a look round the market I went back to the shores to find the food stalls for my trout lunch - fresh from the lake... yum yum! The afternoon seemed to speed by and after a short siesta the sun was already setting. From our balcony we watched the sungo down behind the lake and to finish our short stay at Capacobanna I went back to the food stalls for dinner for more trout, it was that good!

LA PAZ

The first glimpse coming into La Paz is pretty interesting, the buildings are packed in nd cling to the sides of the canyon we drove into. Although unfortunatly this means that the smog and pollution is easily trapped and seems to smother the city. I didn´t really like La Paz, maybe i didn´t give it much of a chance as we ended up getting the bus out the next day...


TUPIZA

If ever there has been a place during my travels to get bak in the sadde - Tupiza was it! Reminisant of the American Wild West - but more spectacular the tranquil settlement is ringed by an amazing landscape of rainbow colored rocks, hills, mountains and canyons of the Cordillera de Chichas. I took myself off for a couple of days and went to meet amy new travel buddy - a beautiful piebald gelding, who got the nick name "The Cow"!
There were two other riders on my trek as well as the guide who took us throuh deep gorges, cactus forests and across fast rivers that formed the dramatic backdrop to our ride. As we rode up the San Juan River we reached our stop for the night, a small farm where our room was next door to the horses paddock. It had been a fantastic day but so tiring! During dinner , a hearty farmhouse casserole preared by our hosts, I could barely keep my eyes open and we all ended up in bed before 9pm!The next morning we were up early and back on the horses. I don´t know what they had been given for breakfast but they didn´t seem to want to stop! We were all galloping and racing through the villages and across the flood plains - felt like a real cowboy! Exhausted, we broke for lunch but this only seemed to re-boost the horses for the rest of the afternoon, maybe they knew we were heading home.I has an incredible 2 days out on the trek, however I was glad to get back to the town having spent about 14 hours in the saddle in total gave me quite a sore bottom! I had also caught the sun a lot too and had ended up with a very red nose that sould only really belong to an alcoholic! Even so, I would do it all again in a flash, it was such a brilliant way to go sight seeing =)

UYUNI

The bus journey over to Uyuni was a little scary. The single lane, unpaved roads are said to be some of the most dangerous in Bolivia. Drivng through the mountains we often had cliff face on one side of the bus and sheer drop on the other. After seeing some of the vehicles which had skidded off the road and hadnt made it to their final destination´I decided to draw the curtain and cross my fingers that the driver would complete the 6 hour roller coaster ride safely!

Like Tupiza the main attractions of Uyuni are not in the town itself - more in the surrounding areas so we signed up for a 3 day adventure to cruize the sights with a 4x4...
First stop, Salar de Uyuni - the worlds largest salt flat that blankets a huge 12, 106 square km! We spent hours on the salt flat visiting the salt extracting village of Colchani, Isla del Pescado - an island at the heart of the salt flat covered in cactus´and stopping in what seemed like the middle of nowhere to marvel at the unworldly sceenery that surrounded us.
Becasue of the time of year that we we went, rainy season, a lot of the salt flat was under a couple of inches of water which projects the perfect mirror image of clouds, sky and land to the horizon... Absolutly stunning!
That evening we reached our over night stop, a small chalet made completly out of salt - the walls, tables, chairs even the beds!
On the seconde day there was a fair bit of driving to do. We passed through the surreal landscape that is nearly treeless and only punctuated buy gentle hills and volcanoes along the bolivian/ Chilean border. For me the best part of the day was our lunch spot where we stopped at a lake filled with pink flamingos. I loved the chance to just sit and watch there beautiful creatures.
After lunch, again, there was a lot of driving , passing interesting rock farmations created by volcano explosions years ago. Gradually the weather turned from bad to worse and eventually we ended up dribing across snow fields! Our accomodation for the night was pretty basic and everybody wrapped up in all the olayers possible for the evening - there was a small fire as an attempt to keep us warm although i can´t say that it really worked.Our last day of the 4 x 4 trip wpuld take us into Chile. We were woken up at 4am which none of us liked or could understand. Back in the car we drove past geseyers over to hot springs where we stopped for a pancake breakfast. I passed down the chande for a dip in the hot springs, at 6am the thought of undressing in the freezing cold did NOT appeal! Our last stop of the trip was at the Laguna Verde (Green Lake), where the lake set below the mountains has turned green of time due to the different minerals taht have dissolved in the water.
This was our trusty 4 x 4 and the group for the 3 days around the Salar de Uyuni, Caitlin and I, Tal, Durian, Ben, Phil and Neria.And this was where the trip ended, we were dropped at the very unofficial border crossing of Bolivia into Chile and told that a bus would come ´soon´!

Thursday 13 January 2011

PERU

Well actually from New Zealand Caitlin and I flew into Santiago, Chile for a few days before flying up to Peru - but I will tell you about that later as we plan to go back to Chile so I will include it with that blog!


LIMA

we had an early flight over to Lima, the capital city of Peru. from the airpo
rt we made our way to Miraflores, one of the neighbourhoods around the city center. It was a nice neighbourhood to wonder around and after a chorizo bagette lunch we went over to the promonade along the cliffs above the beach. While we were there, there were a few guys doing para-gliding... why not!? I signed my name away and got harnessed up while Caitlin decided to stay put on the ground and be designated photographer. When I was all strapped in and attached to the kite (and my instructor!) I was instructed too start running when the kite started to rise with the wind. This was all very well apart from th direction I was suppose to be running in was straight off the cliff! Luckily the wind had swooped us up before I reached the edge and I was up, up and away! It was fantastic seeing the views from way up high, being above the tower block roof tops. As we flew down the coastline I could see the tiny surfers and sunbathers on the beach, the roofs tops stretch out for ages and the roads looked like they were filled with toy cars!

NAZCA

We only spent one night in Lima before catching an early bus over to Nazca. Bone dry and baking hot Nazca is a small town in the middle of the desert . Traveler
s, including Caitlin and I, flood this somewhat unremarkable town to catch a glimpse of the curious ground drawings far out in the scorched desert. The lines were revealed in 1939 when and irrigation research flight flew across the barren region and unearthed th puzzling scratches in the sand that are engraved on the desert floor like a giants graffiti. it is thought that the lines date back to as far as 900 BC. Some believe that the drawings were offerings to the God's and the lines were an astronomical calendar mapped out by sophisticated mathematics. Other theories include that the lines were ritual walkways, giant running tracks and even extraterrestrial landing sites! But still... know one really knows!
That afternoon Caitlin and I were warned that it might
rain, as we were visiting during rain season. But know worries, it only rains 10mm of water per YEAR!
CUZCO & MACHU PICCHU

We had a shrt stop over in Cuzco, a pretty city with high walls and cobbled streets. However the city has a huge altitude - sitting at 3300 meters above sea le
vel, which meant our bodies had quite a shock coming from low down Nazca... the climb to find a hostel nearly killed us! We took it slowly in Cuzco, trying to aclimatize, while wondering the back streets, being tempted by the trinkets on sale and visiting the Cathedral and it´s historical charms in front of the Plaza De Armas.

< Cusco by day

Cusco by night >





It took us the best part of a day traveling to get to the small town, Aguas Calientes, at the foot of Machu Picchu. From Cuzco we got a lift whinding throught the mountains, past the lakes and farm villages and down the ¨Sacred Valley¨. We stopped at Ollantaytambo to get on a train for the restof the way. The train was rediculously slow- it took us over 2 hours to complete the final 27 miles of the journey! However we were compensated by the outstanding sceenery as we chugged along side the Urubamba River.
The following morning Caitlin and I were up early to get to the top of Machu Picchu, The ¨Lost¨Inca City. The ruins are found at the top of a mountain and are undeniably spectacular. The archaeological site is deservably world famous for it´s stunning location and also it´s mysterious past. The acual purpose and function of Machu Picchu is still a matter of speculation and guesswork and despite studies of the ¨Lost¨Inca City knowledge still remains sketchy. Whatever the case, the excepionally high quality of the stonework and craftsmanship amazes me!

Climbing to the top of Machu Picchu and seeing the views that surrounded us was literally breath taking.

AREQUIPA


Caitlin and I had heard good things about Arequipa from fellow travellers and we were looking forward to arriving. Dad had put me in contact with a frien
d of his who lives there too so it was lovely to be met and welcomed by Anna after a horrible over night bus journey fromCuzco (the 10 hour bus we were on stank like a farm yard, there were screaming babies, snoring men and the sub zero temeratures meant that the condensation from our breath froze to the windows!). Anyway... we were taken to the family home and filled up with fresh fruit and hot coffee. We spent most of the day reading in the warm sunshine in the garden trying to regain some of our energy!

The next morning we went into town to see the centre . The perfect cone-shaped volcano of ´El Misti´ rises up behind the Cathedral and the town square and the grand buildings around the city are all built from the light coloured volcanic rock which dazzels in the sun. We were shown around town by Dromy (Anna´s daughter) and her boyfriend who acted as our personal tour guides and translators for the day! They also introduced us to the delicious Peruvian cuisine of ¨Ceviche¨; raw seafood marinated in lime, red onions and chilli.
It was a shame we didn´t get to spend more time in Arequipa, it was such a beautiful city. But our time in Peru had run out! Onto the next destination....

Tuesday 4 January 2011

NEW ZEALAND - North Island

From the South Island Caitlin and I boarded a ferry at Picton to take us across to Wellington the north Island. The ferry crossing took about 3 hours and we were lucky to have calm seas. We were met in Wellington by Alison, Mum's friend, who let us stay at her houses while we were in wellington. Back at the house we met Brian, Alison's husband, Grace, their daughter, Shiloh the cat and Hazel the rabbit!

ROAD TRIP!

DAY 1: WELLINGTON > MARTINBOROUGH > 82km
Thankfully my driving lisence had arrived in the post on time and we were able to hire a car to do a bit of exploring around the North Island. On the first day with the car we drove over to Marinbourough with Alison and Brian and some of their friends who had hired a villa in the vinyard region and invited us to stay too in the spare room. we left windy Wellington behind and arrived in the scorching sun. Alison, Brian and Co. all had tickets for the Blondie concert being held in one of the vinyards. There were no spare tickets by the time Caitlin and I got there so we retreated to a beer garden for the afternoon and I made friends with the cows in the field opposite!

DAY 2: MARTINBOROUGH > NAPIER > 278km
It was quite a long drive up to Napier and spent most of the day in the car getting there. Napier was levelled by an earthquake in 1931 and since rebuilt in the style of the time and now known as 'The Art Deco capital of the world' due to the fantastic and unique buildings that feature along the main streets of the city. Becasue of this Napier is quite a popular destination in New zealand becasue of the blend of history and culture. We were greeted in Napier by rain, rough seas and tough wind. We drove around the town see some of the interesting buildings but had to take shelter in the hostel for the evening watching Brad Pitt movies.



DAY 3: NAPIER > TAUPO > 141km

It took a couple of hours the next morning to drive over to the small town of Taupo. We left early to be there by midday and picked up a hitch hiker on the way over. He was a German guy and I can't actually remember his name but he was a bit strange and asked us what deoderant we used...?

It was still drizzly when we arrived in Taupo so we drove up to the view point to look out at another lake (keeping dry by staying in the car). This lake was pretty impressive to look out at as the size of it is larger than Singapore!!


DAY 4: TAUPO & THE GEOTHERMAL HIGHWAY > 81km

At last the sun had come out again! We went out in the car again to explore the things to do arund taupo. It was great having the transport and independence with the car to see the region at our own pace instead of paying to go with expensive tours. That day we visited:

Huka Falls, although the falls are not that high an unbeleivable amount of water passes through here everyday; 220,000 litres of water per second, thats enought to fill an olympic size swimming pool in one minute!

Free honey tasting at the Honey Hive :)
The smelly Prawn Park.

New Zealand's only geothermal power station.

"Craters of the Moon" which is a famous geothermal site. Combined with numerous steam vents constantly shifting, collapsing and reforming giving the whole area a desolate appearence and a sulpher smell. the whole area has an unearthly atmosphere!


DAY 5: TAUPO > WELLINGTON > 372km

On our last day of the trip the weather was awful again so we spent all day driving back to Wellington in the cloud which covered the lakes and national parks we were driving past. After a super fish & calamari super we arrived back at Alison & Brian's house where Grace was waiting for us to introduce us to their new guests... 4 tiny kittens! Grace was fostering the kittens for the RSPCA until they were house trained and ready to be re homed.

Later that evening all of us went down into the city to see the beautiful Christmas lights and the Christmas tree, made out of thousands of lights and a big pile of bean bags underneath in the middle to fall on and gaze up to the top.


WELLINGTON

We still had the car for one more day so we took it out to see more of Wellington and went up Mt. Victoria to see the view from above. It was a great lookout where we could see the city perched on the edge of the harbour and encircled by the green towering hills. Back inside the city we went to visit the National Museum Te PaPa. Situated on the waterfront this nationally acclaimed museum combines high technology with traditional exhibits to tell the stories of New Zealand's land and people. My 2 favorite things were the Giant Squid- 5.4 meters long! and the Earthquake Simulator.

In the afternoon we found ourselves stuck in the vibrant city centre and caught up in the pre- Xmas sales - a dangerous place to be for a poor back packer!
Cable Car.


CHRISTMAS DAY!

Yey the sun was out for us!! It was a beautiful day :) Santa had visited us both a left lots of 'lollies' and chocolate goodies! After breakfast and a big present opening frenzy of treat and messages from home we packed up the car and went down to the beach! We met with Alison's sister, Miranda, and her kids Ashley and Chris. The 8 of us had a huge picnic and while Caitlin and I were happy in the heat of the sun there was Frisbee games, swimming and rock pooling going on too.

Caitlin, Me and Grace on the beach, Christmas day!

That evening we sat down to pull crackers before we stuffed ourselves with a winner chicken dinner and an enormous New Zealand raspberry pavlova.

"What do you call a cat on the beach at Christmas?" ... "Sandy Claws!"
BIG CHRISTMAS TUMMY!

Boxing day we spent our time nursing our newly round tummies, playing with the kittens (who all had names by now; Hercules, Delilah, Lilly and Luciano) and watching the Glee box set until dinner time came round again! This time for roast mutton and everyones favorite... the towering chocolate fountain! I'm not sure how we managed it, but we did!


ROTORUA

We had a night in Rotorua as a stop over on our way up north. Like Taupo, Rotorua has lots of geothermal activity in the area. On the way in I could smell we were there before the bus driver had announced it! The geothermal activity leaves the town with a strong smell of sulphur, and the best way to descibe the smell of sulphur is ROTTING EGGS!

That evening we went to the Tawa Forest to visit the Ngati Tama people, the Mouri Tribe that inhabits the area. After the welcome ceremony we saw the village and watched some of the time honoured crafts and past-times of the people. For dinner we were invited to a back packers favorite thing, an ALL YOU CAN EAT buffet. The food was a 'Hangi' feast, which means it was cooked beneath the ground on hot roacks. The evening finished with songs and stories from the past before we returned to the hostel.

AUCKLAND

Driving into Auckland I was surprised at how large the city was compared to the other main cities in New Zealand, Wellingotn and Christchurch. It is infact the largest city in New Zealand and inhabits a larger populatiojn than the entire South Island! Auckland is situated at the bottom of the cape on the North Island streching itself from shore to shore, because of the large amout of coastline and the off shore islands the number of boatsa around has given Auckland the nick name ¨City of Sails¨.

Our first day Caitlin and I went down to the harbour in the moring and caught a ferry across to Rangitoto Ialsnd. The island is an example of New Zealand´s changing landscape due to it´s situation on the fault line between the 2 tectonic plates. Rangitoto Island is a dormant volcano and has formed itself though a series of erruptions in the past, it is one out of 144 volcanos in Auckland alone.

On the Island Caitlin and I felt like intrepid explorers! First we headed west to find the light house at McKenzie Bay before heading inland up the steep tack that took us to the summit of the volcano and around the crater edge. Below is the View from the sumit.On out way down we found lava caves and tunnels to explore formed years ago from previous erruptions. Luckily we were told to bring a torch and it was a good job we had a sturdy walking shoes... erm flip flops again!

That eveing when we were back at the hostel we had a fire alarm, it was no drill there was a fire in the building! This made me quite nervous as the assembaly point was inside on FLOOR 3!! It turned out it was only a small fire and everything was okay but we were not alound on floor one where the fire had been , also our floor, untill the smoke had cleared. We couldn´t do much in the meantime as our bags and money were stuck on our rom and the TV rom and kitchen were off limits too. 20 minites waiting turned into 30 minites which turned into 45 minita and after an hour the hostle bar staff eventually took the hint and it was free drinks all round! Later I found out that the cause of the fire was a girl who has left insense burning unattended to get rid of the smell of the boys toilets next door!

NEW YEARS EVE

In the moring we went over to the Victoria Markets. It was a quirky place with some fun items for sale and lots of interesting characters who wanted to dress us up in period clotheing, tell fortunes and read us tarrot cards obviously all for a price whcich we did not have!

After lunch we went to see the Sky Tower and got combo tickets for the Observation Level and Sky Deck. It was a spectacular view at the top giving 360 degree lookout over all of Auckland.
Glass floors 220 meters high!View of the harbour and Rangitoto Island on the left in the distance.


That evening Caitlin and I were back, all dressed up, at the Sky Tower to see the city lit up, again the views were amazing and from the top we watched all the firework displays happening from all around the city. Just before midnight we made sure we were outside at the bottom of the tower to see the main firework display in the city, set off from the roof of the Sky Tower... ooh... ahh!
For the rest of the nightwe were drinking Sangria in a funky little Soith American bar with the locals!

On New Years Day we packed a picnic and went over to Albert Park for the afternoon. It was a beautiful day with glorious sunshine as we toasted to 2011 with our pink champagne... in tes cups!


I hope everyone had a wonderful Christams and a great New Years.
Next stop South America!